Recollections of a Tour Made in Scotland A.D. 1803 by Dorothy Wordsworth
Published 1874
For years I have been heading to the Lakes for my holidays and not once had I ever considered that William Wordsworth not only had a sister but one who was rather compelling for all her feats in writing ability and also holding the title to being the first woman to scale Scarfell Pike, Englands highest peak.
It was actually Anne Lister who made the connection for me and I’m very grateful it happened because now when I go to the Lakes I have someone to admire.
While I can’t find an actual definitive link between Anne Lister of Shibden Hall and Dorothy Wordsworth who spent most of her life in Grasmere there are scholars who deemed Dorothy’s journals in a similar context to Anne’s, or at least they would be if anyone had actually discovered anything remotely lesbian about Dorothy. In reality, all that can be confirmed as truth is that Dorothy never got married and stayed a spinster all her life. Dorothy never made detailed descriptions of sexual activities like Anne Lister. From what I’ve learnt so far Dorothy was just far too busy caring for others with little time for her own needs. Her life is no less remarkable though.
Dorothy Wordsworth loved writing, including poetry, just as much as her brother, William did. In fact, she wrote a whole book of poetry that was only published posthumously. She was not interested in fame and fortune while alive instead her writing seemingly just an outlet as it was for many women of that era.
Dorothy also enjoyed writing detail on the places she’d been to, in the form of a journal. One of these places included Scotland. This particular journal was her detailed descriptions of travel across what was still considered wilderness country in those days in-between the bigger cities and towns of Scotland.
Dorothy, along with her brother William and best friend Samual Taylor Coleridge (founding member of the Romantic movement in England), set out in August 1803 on the long 663-mile tour on just a horse and carriage and not much else. It was an open carriage which is worth remembering when reading the descriptions of the weather and the rough roads they traversed. At the time Dorothy was 30 and insisted she wanted them to be seen more as travellers than tourists. I think she’d be pleased to know her writing indeed came across that way.
What I most found likeable about Dorothy’s writing was the way she constantly compared everything in the Scottish Highlands to the Lakes back in England. Sometimes places surpassing her homeland but on the whole not much compared to her beloved Lake District which shows just how much the place meant to her. While it was not meant as criticism I felt a sense that as much as she enjoyed Scotland, like all good travellers, she was pleased when it was time to head back home.
At all times during the trip, which took six-weeks, Dorothy kept up with her brother and friend and while she didn’t always follow after her brother who wanted to head out just a bit further she did take the time to meet him when she could. Time was often spent securing accommodation for the night as they headed along their route. Some days were easier than others with most people being hospitable and kind. Some places were busy with tourists and Dorothy and her brother were often overlooked and unable to secure anything which meant many miles to travel before they reached the next town.
It’s difficult to comprehend how difficult the journey must have been for Dorothy, especially. Spending hours either travelling along on a bumpy road in the carriage or walking miles over rough ground (in a dress which wasn’t made for walking or climbing up and over mountains), in the hopes of seeing a loch or a beautiful landscape which may or may not have been obscured by low cloud and rain. Not knowing exactly where you’d be sleeping from one day to the next nor what food you might be able to eat when you get there. While she didn’t detail it washing clothes and having baths were probably just as difficult to come by.
But there is no word of complaint during the entire memoir. Not one curt word to her brother either. Only mild annoyance if a local couldn’t accommodate them or in one case just wouldn’t accommodate them without due reason. Nor does Dorothy seem to get worried by being soaked through from the rain or nearly losing their horse over a loch crossing. She merely focusses on the people she meets and the stories she can share with those people. Everything is recorded as fact without getting bogged down in mindless thoughts or feelings which at the time was the way it was. You get a sense that she wouldn’t have been left behind for anything on this journey.
Instead, heading boldly forth and experiencing all that must come from the journey undertaken.